Day One - Getting My Bearings
Arriving in the nearly deserted Lilongwe airport in the wee hours of the morning, I kept my fingers crossed as I approached the baggage carrousel and saw with great relief my two monster bags gliding by. My worst fear had been that after 3 long flights my "checked through" luggage might not arrive with me. Fear ended! Alex, a driver from my B&B picked me up and I was soon deposited at Cluny Lodge, and met by friendly, welcoming Marinus the owner. Arrangements were made for a driver later in the morning, for money exchage and an orientation to Lilongwe, as well as transportation to Namitete on December 1.
Morning brought beautiful sunshine and hot (30 degree) temps. The B&B is surrounded by beautiful tropical plants, and a high fence with guards. I ate breakfast serenaded by The Chiffons singing "One Fine Day" (quite appropriate) from an old CD "Best of the 60's". Who knew then, where I'd be now!!
Headlines in the local paper THE NATIONAL indicated huge concerns for withdrawal of Global Fund Aid. One government minister proposes taxing beer to mitigate the lack of funds for anti-retrovirals. I wonder how popular that idea will be! Other concerns were raised about insufficient medications available at rural health centres. The editorial condemned the action of government against protesters, reminding readers of hard fought democratic rights of freedom of speech.
At 1030 sharp, I was picked up by Alex, and taken to "a friend" who exchanges US dollars and Euros for Kwacha at much higher rates than local banks. Apparently this black market arrangement is used by most. It did feel kind of clandestine as the affair was quickly conducted in the backseat of Alex's car in a local parking lot. We then proceeded to Lilongwe Wildlife Centre and accompanied a young school group on a guided tour. The remarkable centre provides sanctuary for orphaned, abused and injured animals. Walking the 6 km trail we saw a variety of monkeys, baboons, Bella the one eyed lioness, Kambuka the leopard, antelope and crocodiles - over 200 residents in total. Leaving the centre we continued on to Shoprite, a local grocery store where I picked up some staples and became aware of how expensive food products are. Of course, nearly everything is an import from South Africa. Along the roads are tiny stalls selling fruits, vegeatables and other necessities - and likely where most shopping takes place. A quick visit to a craft market rounded out the day. One English language peculiarity of locals that I picked up on, is to say "Sure, Sure" (sounds like "Show, Show") used as an affirmative whenever comments are made. We say "Right, Right" or "Absolutely" in the same way. I'm liking "Sure, Sure" and think I'll start using it to blend in!!
Morning brought beautiful sunshine and hot (30 degree) temps. The B&B is surrounded by beautiful tropical plants, and a high fence with guards. I ate breakfast serenaded by The Chiffons singing "One Fine Day" (quite appropriate) from an old CD "Best of the 60's". Who knew then, where I'd be now!!
Headlines in the local paper THE NATIONAL indicated huge concerns for withdrawal of Global Fund Aid. One government minister proposes taxing beer to mitigate the lack of funds for anti-retrovirals. I wonder how popular that idea will be! Other concerns were raised about insufficient medications available at rural health centres. The editorial condemned the action of government against protesters, reminding readers of hard fought democratic rights of freedom of speech.
At 1030 sharp, I was picked up by Alex, and taken to "a friend" who exchanges US dollars and Euros for Kwacha at much higher rates than local banks. Apparently this black market arrangement is used by most. It did feel kind of clandestine as the affair was quickly conducted in the backseat of Alex's car in a local parking lot. We then proceeded to Lilongwe Wildlife Centre and accompanied a young school group on a guided tour. The remarkable centre provides sanctuary for orphaned, abused and injured animals. Walking the 6 km trail we saw a variety of monkeys, baboons, Bella the one eyed lioness, Kambuka the leopard, antelope and crocodiles - over 200 residents in total. Leaving the centre we continued on to Shoprite, a local grocery store where I picked up some staples and became aware of how expensive food products are. Of course, nearly everything is an import from South Africa. Along the roads are tiny stalls selling fruits, vegeatables and other necessities - and likely where most shopping takes place. A quick visit to a craft market rounded out the day. One English language peculiarity of locals that I picked up on, is to say "Sure, Sure" (sounds like "Show, Show") used as an affirmative whenever comments are made. We say "Right, Right" or "Absolutely" in the same way. I'm liking "Sure, Sure" and think I'll start using it to blend in!!